Julie Rath: How to Create Layered Outfits

I’ve been getting more and more requests from clients wanting outfits with interesting layered combinations. These types of looks are comprised of simple, classic pieces (things everyone should have in his closet), but when pulled together correctly, they become a whole greater than its parts. It’s clear that some thought was put into the look, but there’s no risk of looking like you tried too hard. If you’re the kind of person who wants to be noticed for your style but not right away (i.e., “who’s the sharp guy in the corner…?”), this style of dressing is perfect for you.

In order to have a wardrobe where you can do this you must first collect enough pieces that combine well. Below are 12 essentials to get you started mixing and matching:

1) Navy blazer – note: this must fit impeccably or the entire look is shot.
2) Grey sportcoat – see note above.

 

Men's Personal Shopper: Layered Outfits3) Thin hoodie – I like this fleece wool one from Thinple because it’s polished despite being a hoodie.
4) Great-fitting jeans – dressy and dark or weathered and sporty are fair game but please nothing crazy on the back pockets.
5) Casual pants like chinos or corduroys.

 

Men's Personal Shopper: Outfits with Layers6) Patterned t-shirt – this Missoni shirt would look terrific peeking out beneath a solid navy henley, under a sportcoat.

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Julie Rath: How to Create Layered Outfits

Julie Rath: What’s Your Power Suit?

I’m not going to lie, the term POWER SUIT makes me cringe a bit. Yes, the  right suit can help you look powerful, at least if it fits you perfectly, but  just donning a suit does not by itself do the job. There are other pieces to the  puzzle. So if you’re going into a situation where you want people to sit up and  take notice when you walk in, read on for 4 easy tips on how to  manage your appearance.

How to Dress Powerfully: Ties

1) Straight lines and angles in patterns and clothing  silhouettes signal authority. An easy way to apply the former is with ties: the  tie above left is much stronger because of its angularity than the tie to the  right with its curved lines. For silhouettes, you can see this everywhere from  glasses, to suits, to sport jackets (if you wear glasses, my article on how to choose glasses frames is a must-read). For example, a  squared-off jacket shoulder is more commanding than a soft shoulder.

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Julie Rath: What’s Your Power Suit?

Julie Rath: How to Change Your Hairstyle

 

Men's Personal Stylist: George Clooney Hair

Even George Clooney didn’t always get it  right.

I’m all about instant gratification. Give me the  choice between store-bought and homemade, and I will almost always go for the  quick fix. My family calls it “Rathness” to want to get things done yesterday. Unfortunately, in my line of work, there aren’t always  shortcuts. Obtaining a new wardrobe can take time, not to mention the  tailoring that’s inevitably involved. One place where I can satisfy my Rathness,  however, is with updating clients’ hairstyles. Call today for an  appointment tomorrow, and boom, you’re well on your way to a new and improved  you.

I get that the idea of changing your hairstyle can be intimidating,  especially if you’ve been rocking the same look for several decades. But it’s defeatist to assume that if you’re past a certain age it’s too late  to make a change. So what if you’re 40 years old and have been wearing  your hair the same way since you were a kid? That’s all the more reason to  consider an update, especially if you (and your spouse/partner) think it looks  stale. If you’re on this site, chances are you’re already thinking a change may  be in order, and perhaps hair is part of it. To that I say, dive in, go for  it. If you don’t like it, it will always grow back in a couple of  weeks.

That said, it’s key to go about your hairstyle upgrade thoughtfully  so that you get your desired results. Below are 8 tips  on how to do this.

1) Ask others with hair you like for the name of their hair  stylist. (A lot of people have a hard time asking questions like this,  but it’s not a big deal. Just say that your barber is retiring, and you need  someone new.)

2) Check on a user-review site like Yelp in your area for a  hairstylist who’s well-recommended for men’s scissor cuts (not clippers).

3) When you call for an appointment, see if you can go in for a  consultation first. That way you can discuss your goals in advance and  ask how s/he would go about achieving them before breaking out the scissors.

4) After you’ve found a stylist who’s the right fit, it’s imperative that you communicate clearly with him or her. Explain what your job is  (including how conservative your look needs to be and what you typically wear to  work), what image you’d like your new cut to convey, and how much maintenance  you’re OK with. If you’re a chameleon and want something hip for outside of  work, but conservative for everyday, tell the stylist. In many cases, all it  takes is a subtle difference in how you fingercomb your hair when you get out of  the shower to distinguish between looks.

5) Part of clear communication is bringing with you at least three  pictures of looks you like. Hair stylist James Hernandez of James Hernandez New York says, “Texture  and density play a big part in determining the end result. But where the visuals  help is in capturing the concept of the look you are after, both what you want  to achieve and what you don’t want. Any stylist that is opposed to you using  visuals, I would be little leery of their understanding of the craft of  haircutting.” Stylist James  Joyce agrees, “In the conversation before starting the service, the stylist  can decide what element of the pictures you bring is grabbing your eye.  Sometimes it’s the shape of the head, and sometimes it’s the texture of the  hair.  Either way it’s a big help to have a non-verbal idea. Pictures can  be printed off Google images or clipped from magazines.”

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Julie Rath: How to Change Your Hairstyle

Julie Rath: Secrets from a Shopping Pro

“I hate shopping, except for the part where I am back in my  apartment with new clothes.”

Does that sound like you? A prospective client once emailed that line to me.  It made me laugh, but I get it. Shopping can be tiring, stressful and  frustrating. Planning an effective shopping trip takes strategic thought. While  it should be easy, often things get in the way. But, take it from me, shopping  can be a smooth and seamless process. Below are 9 of my best tools and  tricks for a well-executed shopping trip.

Men's Personal Shopper: Dressing Room SnapHere’s a dressing room snap from yesterday as I was  getting things ready for a client.

1) Find a good salesperson. Some of my best  relationships have resulted from following my intuition in a store and simply  walking up to someone, introducing myself, and explaining what I was looking to  accomplish. A good salesperson will make shopping hassle-free – without an  overbearing salespitch (more on this in #6). They’ll also give you advance info  on when the sales are and in many cases ‘pre-sell’ items to you – which means  you get dibs on things before they go on sale to the general public.

2) Shop when stores are least crowded, in the morning and  early in the week. Try to avoid after work or the lunch rush.

3) Shop with a plan. No good shopping decisions are ever  made by wandering into a store without an agenda. Have a list, printed out if  necessary – I always shop with the client’s list in my pocket – prioritized by  need and budget. Consider getting multiples of basics that work.

4) Once you’ve assessed your needs (conducting a closet edit can give you clarity on that), shop early. If  you need an overcoat, but you wait until January to start shopping, you’ll be  out of luck. The fashion calendar is quirky and requires you to think  ahead. So spend time before each season begins thinking about what  you’re going to need before you need it. Ask yourself, what did  you run out of, or what were you missing last year? Put your answers at  the top of your list.

5) Take a break when you need one, and bring reinforcements.  Pack a bag with anything that will help you stay focused – snacks, drinks, etc.  Hungry very quickly becomes hangry while shopping. What else might you want to  have on hand? This may be TMI, but a client once had something in his teeth that  was distracting him during a shopping session. I happened to have a package of  floss with me, which he was grateful for. He took care of business, and we got  back to business.

6) Be wary of overzealous salespeople. It gives me stomach  pain when I look in new clients’ closets and see that thousands upon thousands  of dollars have been spent on items that don’t even come close to working for  them. Sure, the clothes are beautiful in many cases, but if it doesn’t work, it  doesn’t work. In one case, a client was sold a whole slew of dress shirts from a  major luxury brand that shall remain nameless – half of them were different  sizes from one another (he had obviously been coerced into buying whatever was  in the store), and most of them hadn’t even been bothered to be tailored. The  sleeves were a good 5 inches too long on every single shirt. Remember, most  salespeople work on commission, so they’re incentivized for you to buy more. If  they’re telling you how absolutely amazing everything looks on you,  chances are they aren’t being sincere. It’s actually a good sign when a  salesperson tells you not to buy something.

7) Related to the above, make sure you buy your actual size, not your  fantasy size. I frequently encounter people who say that they’re going  to lose weight and that they should therefore buy things that are too small for  them. That doesn’t work, and it’s a trap. You’ll feel awful about yourself if  you have a closet full of clothes that don’t fit you. And how can you expect to  lose weight feeling crappy about yourself? If you really are committed to  dropping lbs, purchase a few things that fit you now. When you  have clothes that fit you as you are and therefore look good on you, you’ll be  more likely to take care of yourself and reach your weight loss  goal.

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Julie Rath: Secrets from a Shopping Pro

Julie Rath: Sock Match 101

Photo courtesy of Pantharella

You may not have given much thought to your socks, but believe it or not, people do notice them. You could be wearing the most fantastic pair of shoes, but if the choice of socks is off, it up-ends the whole ensemble. When choosing socks to match your outfit, the common wisdom is that they should coordinate with your pants, as a way of elongating the leg.

Of course as with anything else, there are exceptions to the rule. With a monochromatic look, or with khaki trousers and brown shoes, show some personality by sporting a colored sock in a solid or pattern. If wearing patterned socks appeals to you, and you want to take it a step further, select a motif that keys into and complements another element of your outfit: the pattern in your tie, sport jacket, or shirt for example. And whatever you do, make sure your socks are long enough such that when you sit down and cross your legs, your lower leg remains undercover.

Here is a basic combo I like:

 

And here’s one that’s a little more “advanced”:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basic: socks from The Sock House, $29.50; tie from Rag & Bone, $105.

Advanced: socks from The Sock House, $24.75; tie from Fine and Dandy Shop, $49.

Julie Rath: Finding Your “It” Leather Jacket

Photo courtesy of GQ

Lately I’ve been shopping for three different clients looking for each one’s own “It” leather jacket. Each guy already has a leather jacket that he wears, but the fit is off in all cases. The biggest mistake guys make with leather jackets is buying ones that are too roomy and too bulky. A leather jacket should fit snug to the body; you shouldn’t be able to fit anyone else under there with you. Armholes should be cut high, and sleeves should hit no lower than at the base of your wrist. Don’t be surprised if you have to go one size down from your usual to get the right fit.

Other ingredients for achieving leather jacket greatness:

1.// Think leather jacket, not leather blazer or leather trenchcoat. The former feels dated, and the latter might get you arrested.

2.// Choose the right color for your complexion: if your skin tone is cool, go with black; if warm, go with brown.

3.// Don’t be afraid to up the style quotient when deciding what to pair it with. After all, you are wearing your “It” leather jacket, so you might as well wear it with personality. Try it with a slim tie for a night out as seen above.

4.// Refrain from putting a jumble of things in your pockets. This not only adds bulk, but it will also stretch out that killer fit you worked so hard on.

5.// Just say “no” to patches, logos, racing stripes, hoodies and excess distressing.

Julie Rath: Your Fall Shopping List

Men's Personal Shopper: Fall Fashion Tips

Even if you’re still rocking shorts and polo shirts, the time is now to make plans for your cool weather wardrobe. I’ve been pounding the pavement and interwebs hard looking for the best items for my clients as the stores are flush with new merchandise. If you’re planning on doing some Fall shopping yourself, I must warn you that one of the worst things you can do is to go shopping without a plan or, at the very least, a list.

Just wandering into a store aimlessly is for sure the easiest way to end up with nothing at all, or worse, to get pushed into buying a pile of clothes you’ll never wear.

With that in mind, I created this list of 18 must-haves (or nice-to-haves) to inspire and keep you organized as you craft a smart Fall/Winter wardrobe.

Transitional jacket — think peacoat, car coat, or other medium-weight option
Leather jacket – here’s how it should fit
Overcoat — buy now while the selection is good, and there’s still time to have one custom-made
Outerwear vest — wool/cashmere/down, as in the header image
Lined raincoat — you can also get one with a zip-out lining, which is one of the most versatile garments you can own
Dress boots — yes, you can wear these with your suit!
Bad weather boots — look for options that are waterproof and have rubber soles for traction
Wool/cashmere socks — if you’re tall or have very long legs, get ones that go over your calves so your legs remain covered when you sit
Wool/cashmere ties — perfect for frigid days in combination with a scarf
Hat, gloves and scarf — don’t wait for someone to give these to you as a holiday gift!
Winter-weight casual pants — Incotex makes great corduroys and moleskin pants
Heavier-weight sport shirts — a trim-fitting flannel is a great weekend go-to
Heavier weight dress shirts — in more tightly-woven fabrics like oxford
Fall/Winter suits, dress pants and sportcoats — look for tweeds, flannels and heavier-weight worsteds
Menswear vest — wear with jeans for a stylish going-out look
Sweaters — v-necks, polo-necks, henleys, thin cardigans and thick shawl-collared cardigans are good options
Long sleeve tops — in thick materials like waffle-knit
Hoodie — look for one that’s super soft and trim-fitting

Remember, autumn is all about layering, so even if for example the idea of a thin cardigan or outerwear vest don’t appeal to you, think about them in combination with the rest of your wardrobe. The more you can mix and match pieces, the more versatile what you own will be.

If you’d like more tailored help with your Fall/Winter wardrobe, contact me. I’m currently booking appointments for the first week of October.

http://rathandco.com/2013/09/your-fall-shopping-list/#ixzz2eVuyqrmb

Julie Rath: How to Get Killer Headshot Photos

When was the last time you updated your headshot? What, you don’t have a headshot? No problem…read on for how to plan it, what to wear, and how to get it done with aplomb.

Having a good headshot never seems urgent until something like a speaking engagement comes up or someone is writing a profile of you, and then all of a sudden you really need one. Even though this may not be at the top of your to-do’s, trust me, people are checking you out online — and forming impressions of you based on what they see. And thanks to Google Images, any public pictures of you are going follow you around long-term. Below are 9 tips for getting headshots that would make your mama proud:

How to get great headshot photos

1) Wear solid colors as much as possible. If you’re wearing a patterned tie, make sure the pattern is not too busy or large in scale, since that will draw attention away from what people want to see to begin with — that handsome face of yours. Showtime’s CEO Matt Blank above gets it right with his clean, crisp look.

2) Speaking of color, make sure the shade you have on flatters your skin tone. I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to wear the right colors. (You can figure this out by having a color analysis done — contact me for info, or more loosely by asking people whose judgement you trust what colors they think you look best in.)

Bonus tip: If you have light colored eyes, play them up by wearing a color that matches them.

3) Get your hair cut 5-7 days before photos. That’s about the right amount of time for a new cut to “settle” in, especially if your hair stylist tends to cut you very short (sometimes they do this to make the cut last longer if you have trouble fitting appointments in). You can also get it cut closer to the date of your headshot, and let him or her know you’ll be taking photos within the next couple of days and not to go too short.

4) Choose your outfit carefully depending on the purpose of your photos. For example, the whole idea of a business headshot is to show people that you’re trustworthy, professional and approachable yet self-assured. If you’re in a field like finance or law, go with a suit and tie. For more creative and casual fields like advertising or technology, you can wear a blazer and dress shirt, or just the dress shirt. Whatever you plan on wearing, bring a few options to the shoot.

How to get great headshot photos

5) Consider the background. For something traditional in feel, have your photos taken in-studio. For a more interesting vibe that’s still business-friendly, do them on location in your office — if you’re an executive, you might place yourself in front of a window overlooking the city, or stand powerfully in your office. If your photos are for personal use, or your industry is more casual, go outside and shoot in a park or in front of a cool background. See the image above of Jay Penske or my client Chris’s “after” photo for examples. Once you know what background your photos will be shot against, be sure that the colors you’re wearing don’t blend into that.

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Julie Rath: How to Get Killer Headshot Photos

Julie Rath: What is Your Power Suit?

I’m not going to lie, the term POWER SUIT makes me cringe a bit. Yes, the  right suit can help you look powerful, at least if it fits you perfectly, but  just donning a suit does not by itself do the job. There are other pieces to the  puzzle. So if you’re going into a situation where you want people to sit up and  take notice when you walk in, read on for 4 easy tips on how to  manage your appearance.

How to Dress Powerfully: Ties

1) Straight lines and angles in patterns and clothing  silhouettes signal authority. An easy way to apply the former is with ties: the  tie above left is much stronger because of its angularity than the tie to the  right with its curved lines. For silhouettes, you can see this everywhere from  glasses, to suits, to sport jackets (if you wear glasses, my article on how to choose glasses frames is a must-read). For example, a  squared-off jacket shoulder is more commanding than a soft shoulder.

 

Amy Cuddy Ted Talk

2) Adopting the posture and body  language associated with dominance, can change not only how others  perceive you, but also how you feel about yourself. Check out this fascinating TED Talk by Harvard Professor and social psychologist Amy  Cuddy. According to her research, if you spend just two minutes in “power poses” before going into an evaluative situation like a job interview  (you can do them in a bathroom stall), the benefits will be considerable.

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Julie Rath: What is Your Power Suit?

Julie Rath: Summer Footwear

Even naked isn’t naked enough in the ridiculous heat and humidity we’ve been  having on the east coast. In my last article, I listed hot weather survival measures for  clothing and grooming, but this time shoes are on my mind. If you’ve never  switched up your footwear when the temperature rises and your dogs start  barking, I urge you to consider it. You’ll look more seasonally appropriate, and  your feet will thank you. Read on for Rath-approved picks in 8 categories of  summer footwear.

Men's Stylist: Espadrilles

1) Espadrilles These stylishly nonchalant espadrilles  from Castañer ($150) are an excellent alternative to flip-flops  for those wanting more toe coverage.

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Men's Stylist: Summer Shoes

2) Leisure Shoes Ok, so this category is totally made-up.  But the name fits these Riviera shoes ($80), doesn’t it? Don’t wear for anything  other than leisure.

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Julie Rath: Summer Footwear