Julie Rath: Look Taller with these Ten Tips

julie-rath-bio-photoDo you ever wish you looked a little taller? Many of my clients, even if they are above average height, list this as an image goal. At 5′ 1″ myself, I appreciate the sentiment. Luckily for us vertically-challenged folks, we can use clothing as smoke and mirrors to achieve (or at least get closer to) the look we want. Below are 11 tips on how to dress so you look taller:

Patterns and Color
1) Wear the same color (or at least similar tones of color) on top as you do on bottom. That way, you avoid the horizontal line of a color break across your middle, which would cut you in half otherwise.
2) Similarly, you should avoid wearing a belt that contrasts strongly with the rest of your outfit, as it will abbreviate you.
3) Wear socks in the same color as your pants. It makes your legs look longer.
4) Everyone knows to wear vertical stripes, but did you also know that diagonal lines create illusion of length? In addition to vertically striped pants, suits, jackets, and socks, try a repp (diagonal stripe) tie.

Lines of Clothes
5) Dressing in layers allows you to add lots of elongating verticals. Think a hoodie or sweater with a zip or a cardigan left open (try under a sport jacket or a casual jacket).
6) Wear a pocket square. It draws the eye up to your chest favorably.

Sportcoats or Suit Jacket Details 
7) Opt for peak lapels, as the detail and upward-pointing angles guide the viewer’s eye in an upward direction, making you look taller.
8) As in #1, the diagonal lines of a suit jacket or sportcoat’s lapels will extend your height. Choose one with a “low button stance,” which means it buttons lower on your body, extending those diagonal lines.
9) The gorge on your jacket is where the collar meets the lapel. If you’re buying custom, tell them you want a “high gorge,” which will have the same upward-orienting effect as in #7.
10) Buy your jacket on the short side (or have it tailored that way) so that it just covers the curve of your seat. This makes your legs look longer.
11) When you have your jacket sleeves tailored, ask for at least 1/4″ of shirt cuff to show. If not enough or no cuff shows, it can make your arms (and the rest of you by proxy) look short.

Is there anything about your appearance you’d like to balance or camouflauge? Let me know in the comments below, and I’ll tackle it in an upcoming post.

-Content provided by Rath & Co. Men’s Style Consulting. Read more: http://rathandco.com/2014/05/look-taller-with-these-11-tips/#ixzz32ecGeINS

Julie Rath: What to Wear on a Spring Date

The frost has finally lifted here in New York City, and it is officially time to start thinking about Spring dates. Whether you’re strolling through a farmer’s market, going to your local botanical garden, or picnicking on a lawn, it’s key to dress appropriately. Below is a perfect outdoor Spring date outfit.

Men's Style Help: What to Wear on a Spring Date
Blazer via East Dane, shirt via Gant Rugger, pants and belt via Bonobos, shoes via Nordstrom.

What’s your favorite thing to wear on an outdoor date?

Julie Rath: Wake Up that Navy Blazer!

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Oh, excuse me, someone was talking to me about navy  blazers, and I fell asleep.

The idea of navy blazers typically conjures memories of a first trip to  Brooks Brothers for a rite of passage Sunday jacket, gold buttons and all. But not all navy blazers have to be a snoozefest. In fact,  there are ways to take this conservative stalwart and give it a good shake-up. Read on for 5 tips on how to make a navy blazer your own:

1) Get it tailored so that it FITS you. I’ve you’re a  current Rath & Co. client, or if you’ve been following me for some time, you  know I’m a stickler for clothes that fit perfectly. So if you have a navy blazer  that’s been hanging around your closet for a while, and the fit is within  striking distance (the first thing to check is if it’s right across the  shoulders), take it to a tailor you trust, and have him or her check the rest,  including waist, arms and length, and make adjustments as needed. You’d be  amazed at the 180 a jacket can take with a few nips and tucks.

Men's Personal Shopper: navy blazer

2) Swap out those trad gold buttons for ones made of horn or  gunmetal, like in the image above of a blazer I designed for a client.  You’ll go from preppy to polished in no time.

3) Rather than standard navy, consider a blue with some kick to it,  like midnight, cobalt or royal. Check out the same shot above of my  client in his spanking new bright blue blazer. (His fiancée wasn’t  complaining.)

Men's Personal Shopper: navy blazer 4) Instead of a solid, try a subtly patterned  fabric, like this tone-on-tone windowpane (above left — you have to  expand the image to see the pattern) I just picked out for a different client. A  blue hounds-tooth or pin-dot (above center and right) would also work, as would  blue tweed in cold weather. From 4 + feet away, these fabrics read as solid, but  up close you can see the extra oomph.

 

Men's Personal Shopper: navy blazer

5) Wear it casually. This is an entire blog post on its own – much bigger than one bullet point, but I’ll give you the broad strokes. If  you’re bored by the navy blazer-khaki pants routine (or if it just isn’t you),  mix it up by pairing your blue blazer with casual pieces: with jeans, layered  over a t-shirt and hoodie or cardigan, with a casual (perhaps short-sleeved – no  one will know) shirt in a quirky pattern as seen in the above image and/or with  casual laceups.

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How do you like to wear a navy blazer?

-Content provided by Rath & Co. Men’s Style Consulting. Read more: http://rathandco.com/2014/03/wake-up-that-navy-blazer/#ixzz2zjgMSaZq

Julie Rath: Sales Finds

This week’s style briefing is  all about saving you some dollar bills. I’ve scoured the interwebs with you in  mind, looking for deals to help keep your pockets lined. Below are 6  sale finds I’m rather excited about. Remember, selection is limited  when it comes to sale items (particularly those that come in sizes), so if any  of these appeal to you, don’t sit on them for too long.

Men's Personal Shopper: Tote Bag1) Mismo tote bag $477.15 $334

Both the linen blend and blue color of this bag make it a no-brainer for  Spring. If you haven’t heard of the website Farfetch, check it out. It’s an easy way to get hard-to-find items from small boutiques around the world. It also makes ordering from overseas cost-effective and simple because import duties are included in their prices.

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Men's Personal Shopper: Zanellato Bag2) Zanellato satchell $875.95 $613

Looking for a more conservative and mature bag than in #1? Check out the  Zanellato bag above. I am loving the rich brown leather and weathered gold  hardware. Another bonus about this bag is if you’re tough on your things, its  grainy leather can withstand a beating.

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Men's Image Consultant: Boglioli Sweater3) Boglioli sweater $1150 $459

When looking at sale items, it pays to be flexible. Sure, a heavy sweater is  something you’d mainly think to wear on cold winter days, but a cardigan like  this is also good for transitional months where it’s too warm for your winter  coat, but there’s enough of a bite in the air that you need something. On top of  that, Boglioli is one of my favorite brands — sprezzatura at its  finest!

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Men's Image Consultant: Billy Reid Polo4) Billy Reid polos $88 $61

It strikes me as odd for polos to be on sale now, at the start of Spring, but  perhaps these are left over from last year. Either way, it’s a good deal on a  staple. These polos from Billy Reid fit trimly but are comfortable.

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Men's Image Consultant: Rag & Bone Pants5) Rag & Bone pants $185 $130

I stocked up on these soft pants with a one-on-one client at the Rag &  Bone store in NYC last week. This is another sale item that has me scratching my  head, as the material feels quite Spring-y. Note: the material on these pants  stretches, so if you’re in between sizes or unsure, go down a size. Also, they  come in other colors like grey and navy.

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Men's Image Consultant: 7 Jeans6) 7 for All Mankind jeans $189 $129 + 10% off if  you sign up for their newsletter

The start of a new season is a good time to reassess your staples. Do you  need a new pair of dark rinse jeans? If so, I like the color and non-contrast  seaming on these from 7 for All Mankind. If the standard classic fit isn’t for  you, there are plenty of other cuts on sale (for my primer on finding flattering  jeans, click here). $20 from each pair purchased will be donated to Movember.

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Keep in mind when shopping sales to look at the fine print. Often items on  sale (like the cardigan above from Barney’s) are not returnable.

Have you had any exciting sale finds recently?

Julie Rath: The Best Part of Spring — Lightweight Jackets

Aside from the gorgeous weather, for me a sure sign of Spring is a sudden  jonesing for the perfect lightweight men’s jacket. This time around, I’m  expanding the search to jackets plural because there are so many fantastic  options out there.

Here are a few that I’m especially fond of in varying styles.

This jacket is the smart result of another high-low partnership, this time between the  middle-of-the-road UK department store John Lewis and Joe Casely-Hayford, British designer of  luxury menswear brand, Casely-Hayford. I always love a leather jacket, and both the  olive color and quilting nicely distinguish this lovely creation from all those  black and brown leather bombers out there. ($604)

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With the Brock Jacket, Elie Tahari takes the somewhat overplayed  Member’s Only style and gives it a shot in the arm by combining it with classic  trench coat details. The color, epaulets, pockets and tortoise buttons all say  sophisticated mackintosh, but the abbreviated length modernizes the look. This  jacket is an excellent choice for transitional outerwear. ($302)

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I’m very into this Microcheck  Jacket from Armani Jeans. It gives you that  sporty style without looking like you’re wearing the hoodie from your tracksuit.  Another nice thing about this type of men’s jacket is the modified shorter  collar that’s meant to be worn up. It looks clean and sharp, and you don’t have  to be the guy that goes out of his way to pop a collar that was intended to be  worn flat. As one friend says, “popped collars = I need attention.” ($295)

Read the rest of…
Julie Rath: The Best Part of Spring — Lightweight Jackets

Julie Rath: Bringing Your Style A-Game in a Casual Work Environment

There’s nothing better than a well-dressed man in a suit. And yet, while  suiting is one of my favorite things to style, many Rath & Co. clients work  in casual environments and don’t have the need or opportunity to wear dressy  clothes very often. For these clients, the challenge becomes how to be  well-dressed and get noticed without looking out of place among their peers. There’s a fine line between putting some effort into your appearance and  seeming like you’re trying too hard (which can often result in getting  busted on by coworkers – never fun). Those offices where jeans, t-shirts and  sneakers are more common than a jacket and tie can range from tech startups to  laboratories.

With these challenges in mind, I’ve created the below list of 8 tips  on how to step up your style just enough so that it improves your   self-image and the way you’re perceived by others, but not to the degree that  you overdo it and become the object of skepticism or even ridicule.

Men's Style: Converse Jack Purcell1) If you’re wearing sneakers, make sure  they’re not ones you’d actually exercise in but rather what I call “social  sneaks.” These are sneakers you wear for every day, not working out.  They should be clean and fresh-looking. Wash or replace them as soon as they  start to look grungy. Converse Jack Purcell’s are a great choice.

 

Men's Style: Avoid hybrid dress shoes 2) Same goes for any other kind of footwear you  might find yourself in: keep it classy and avoid anything with the word “hybrid” in its description. The place where the sneaker meets any  other kind of shoe (i.e., dress shoe, boot or sandal) is like a dark alley late  at night — nowhere you’d want to be.

 

Men's Style: Socks3) Just because you’re wearing a casual shoe, you  don’t need to wear white gym socks or plain black dress socks. In fact, wearing more interesting socks is a great way to inject style into your  look without going over the top. Try different colors or patterns, like  those above from Drumohr. And even simply switching from black to navy or  grey is a big improvement.

 

Men's Style: textured tie4) If you’d like to wear ties but  aren’t sure where to start, go with one in a fabric with texture as opposed to a  more business-y silk. It can be cotton, wool, cashmere or silk knit.  Texture makes you look approachable, so this gives you the added effect that  comes from wearing a tie, done in a toned-down way. Pierrepont Hicks makes a number of good choices with  texture, like the one above.

 

Men's Style: Glasses5) Just because you wear glasses does  not mean you have to resign yourself to life (visually) as a nerd. In  fact, I get really excited (maybe too excited) when I have a client who needs  glasses. There are so many terrific frames out there, and wearing glasses is an  excellent way to improve your look – even if you sit behind a computer all day.  The other nice thing about using glasses to step up your look is that wearing  them is utilitarian, and unless you choose something that’s really wacky or  overly-stylized, you won’t be perceived as trying too hard (assuming you  actually do have a glasses prescription!). Here’s a guide I wrote on how to choose. One of my  favorite resources for glasses in New York City is 10/10 Optics, and they were kind enough to offer the $100  discount above for my readers (Offer good on complete pair of frame and  Rx only. Not valid on existing orders, contact lenses, Maui Jim or Ray-Ban Rx  Eyewear).

6)  Are untucked shirts more common in your office than tucked?  If so, there’s a right way to do this – and several wrong ones. Done  correctly, the shirt length should hit about halfway down your pants fly and no  longer than that. Also, the bottom of the shirt should have a straighter and  shallower curve than the tails you see on a traditional dress shirt (which are  designed to help stay tucked in). If you buy a shirt and decide you’d prefer to  wear it tucked out than in, take it to your tailor to have it adjusted  accordingly.

7) Keep a sportcoat or blazer in your office – one that fits well and  is easy to match like a solid navy or grey. That way, if you’re heading  to a networking event after work, all you have to do is throw it on (but note,  if your button-up shirt is untucked, switch to one that you can tuck in; you  don’t want to wear a sportcoat with an untucked shirt).

 

Men's Style Help: Dark Denim 8) For those of you in jean-friendly  environments, keep your denim crisp and polished. Hint: these  are not your weekend knockaround/football-watching jeans. Look for dark rinse,  straight-leg styles with no holes or excess whiskering and detailing on the back  pockets like those above from Bonobos.

Working in a casual environment is no excuse for giving up on the possibility  of looking pulled together or stylish. By paying attention to a few details like  those above, you can easily manage your appearance so that it enhances, rather  than detracts from your overall appearance.

How do these tips strike you? Do they seem doable for you? Leave me a comment  below.

Julie Rath: Profile in Awesomeness — Lou Piccolo

Watch Rath & Co.’s latest Profiles in Awesomeness video interview with Lou Piccolo, President of A.L. Piccolo & Co. Inc.

Lou is a management consultant and stylish man about town.

We sat down with him at the Michael Andrews Bespoke studio and discussed what makes him tick when it comes to menswear.

He also reveals his favorite pieces from his vintage cufflink collection.

Julie Rath: Follow these Six Rules for Success in Any Meeting

Today’s post is courtesy of speech and communication specialist, Marjorie  Feinstein-Whittaker, of The  Whittaker Group. I was introduced to Marjorie by a client and have been  thoroughly impressed by the progress she’s made with his communication skills  throughout the course of my work with him.

Men's Image Consulting: Communication SkillsMany of us spend a significant amount of work time  in meetings ranging from routine staff and management meetings, to client  presentations, and more. Unfortunately, these frequent opportunities for  education, collaboration, and communication are often perceived as boring,  unproductive, and even contentious. One of the most important things you  can do to make your participation in meetings positive is to be a good  listener. By offering your full and focused attention, and conveying  respectful and socially appropriate behaviors, you can build and maintain  healthy long-term business relationships. This is easier said than done. Many of us have both verbal and non-verbal habits that can sabotage our  best efforts. However, if you identify and address some of these  behaviors, you can learn how to exude confidence, competence and poise.

If you typically:

1. Interrupt others – If you have an enthusiastic, perhaps  impulsive personality, it may be difficult not to blurt out comments at  inopportune times. Take a slow, deep breath, or silently count to three  before you speak. If you inadvertently interrupt someone, acknowledge  it by apologizing, and encouraging the speaker to go on. For example, “I am  sorry for interrupting. Please finish what you were saying.” If you need to  interrupt a speaker to get a meeting back on track, or give another participant  time to reply, raise your hand slightly (to chest level), and acknowledge the  speaker by name. “James, I’m sorry to have to cut you off, but I promised I  would leave 10 minutes for Q and A.”

2. Have a trash-mouth –

If you are a person who litters their speech with expletives to get attention  or express extremes of emotions, you are negatively affecting your  professionalism and credibility. It is best to refrain from inappropriate or  potentially offensive remarks. Work on expanding your vocabulary so you can  explicitly and appropriately convey your thoughts and emotions. Instead of  saying, “It was a damn good meeting,” try something like, “The meeting exceeded  all of our expectations.” Learn how to choose your words carefully.  Rehearse alternative ways of expressing your feelings and ideas in a more  professional manner. If your colleagues include nonnative English  speakers, be careful not to use unfamiliar figurative expressions, slang or  colloquialisms which may be misunderstood or misinterpreted. Also avoid jargon  or acronyms that might be unfamiliar to some members of the group.

3. See the glass as half-empty –

If you are the nay-sayer in the group, think of ways to re-frame what  you say with a more positive spin. Instead of remarking, “That is never  going to work,” or “That is a ridiculous proposal,” try something like, “This  project is going to be challenging. Perhaps if we delegate the responsibilities,  we can meet the deadline.”

4. Have “monkey-brain” –

If you sit in meetings and your mind jumps from one thing to another as if  you were swinging from tree to tree by your tail in the jungle, you need to  learn how to focus. Of course there are a myriad of external distractors, such  as people walking past your office, interesting things outside the window,  office chatter, and buzzing smart phones. There are also internal thoughts that  may range from a growling stomach to how you feel about your co-worker on a  given day. Learn how to be in the moment. Look at the person who is  speaking, and really listen with your eyes, body and mind. Offer to  take the minutes. This task will ensure that you are really engaged and  listening mindfully.

5. Ramble, mumble, or speak too softly or rapidly –

Sometimes it is difficult to get to the point, especially if you are asked a  question that you didn’t anticipate. Instead of answering immediately, take a  breath, and organize your thoughts silently. Create a mini outline in your mind  so you can stay on topic and avoid rambling. A convenient acronym to help you  achieve this is T-I-E-S. T= re-state or paraphrase the question or  topic I= introduce your main idea E=  cite 2-3 supporting facts or examples   S=summarize

Make sure you speak at a reasonable pace (not too fast or slow), and at an  adequate volume (not too soft or loud). Finish the ends of your words, and don’t  let your voice trail off at the ends of words. Try to minimize stereotypical and  meaningless remarks such as, “Do you hear what I am saying,” and empty fillers  such as “you know,” “It was like,” “uh,” etc. Pause silently, and speak when you  have something worthwhile to say. Make sure you speak with varied pitch and  intonation, and avoid a monotone (boring) delivery.

6. Send the wrong message without saying a word –

It is extremely important to be aware of what kinds of non-verbal messages  you are sending through eye contact, gestures, and body language. For example,  bouncing your leg, drumming your fingers, or rolling your eyes could convey  impatience or frustration. Closing your eyes/pinching the bridge of your nose,  looking away and yawning could convey boredom, and raising your eyebrows,  covering your mouth with your hands could convey disbelief. Much of what  we say isn’t spoken at all. Try to maintain appropriate eye contact  with speakers, lean forward with your body, and nod to convey interest and  attentiveness.

Of course, you cannot control what other colleagues or clients say or do in  meetings, but you can control your reactions. You will find that being a good  listener who is in the moment will have benefits that go beyond the  Boardroom.

Men's Image Consulting: Speech and Communication Specialist

Marjorie Feinstein-Whittaker is owner and principal consultant at The Whittaker Group in Boston and is co-founder of ESL  RULES. Her companies  provide assessment and consultation services to both  native and nonnative English speakers in a variety of fields. She develops and  delivers specialized foreign and regional accent modification programs  and  customized workplace communication programs for those seeking to improve the  clarity and effectiveness of their speech and communication. Marjorie works with  clients from all over the world, both in person and via distance learning. Her  training programs have been featured on The Today Show and many local  media outlets.

You can contact Marjorie here.

-Content provided by Rath & Co. Men’s Style Consulting. Read more: http://rathandco.com/2014/03/follow-these-6-rules-for-success-in-any-meeting/#ixzz2xZ1CJ78r

Julie Rath: Wake Up that Navy Blazer

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Oh, excuse me, someone was talking to me about navy  blazers, and I fell asleep.

The idea of navy blazers typically conjures memories of a first trip to  Brooks Brothers for a rite of passage Sunday jacket, gold buttons and all. But not all navy blazers have to be a snoozefest. In fact,  there are ways to take this conservative stalwart and give it a good shake-up. Read on for 5 tips on how to make a navy blazer your own:

1) Get it tailored so that it FITS you. I’ve you’re a  current Rath & Co. client, or if you’ve been following me for some time, you  know I’m a stickler for clothes that fit perfectly. So if you have a navy blazer  that’s been hanging around your closet for a while, and the fit is within  striking distance (the first thing to check is if it’s right across the  shoulders), take it to a tailor you trust, and have him or her check the rest,  including waist, arms and length, and make adjustments as needed. You’d be  amazed at the 180 a jacket can take with a few nips and tucks.

Men's Personal Shopper: navy blazer

2) Swap out those trad gold buttons for ones made of horn or  gunmetal, like in the image above of a blazer I designed for a client.  You’ll go from preppy to polished in no time.

3) Rather than standard navy, consider a blue with some kick to it,  like midnight, cobalt or royal. Check out the same shot above of my  client in his spanking new bright blue blazer. (His fiancée wasn’t  complaining.)

Men's Personal Shopper: navy blazer 4) Instead of a solid, try a subtly patterned  fabric, like this tone-on-tone windowpane (above left — you have to  expand the image to see the pattern) I just picked out for a different client. A  blue hounds-tooth or pin-dot (above center and right) would also work, as would  blue tweed in cold weather. From 4 + feet away, these fabrics read as solid, but  up close you can see the extra oomph.

Read the rest of…
Julie Rath: Wake Up that Navy Blazer

Julie Rath: Simple Home Blemish Treatment

No matter how tempting it might be to squeeze, dig or pick at a pimple, word life: don’t do it. It will only irritate the area and make it more likely to spread. Below is an anti-zit concoction I discovered a few years back, and it always comes through. It’s made up of items that are probably hanging around your kitchen already and is super easy to assemble.

Materials:
cotton swab
hydrogen peroxide
1/8 cup powdered oatmeal
1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 c egg whites
3 drops honey

Directions:
1. Dab cotton swab in hydrogen peroxide and clean blemish area (this keeps the pimple from spreading).

2. Mix everything else in a small bowl to create a paste.

3. Cover pimple with mixture and leave on for twenty minutes.

4. Rinse with warm water.

5. Apply twice a day until zit disappears. (Leftovers will keep in fridge for up to one week.)

-Content provided by Rath & Co. Men’s Style Consulting. Read more: http://rathandco.com/2011/07/simple-home-blemish-treatment/#ixzz2vU55SVRk