Julie Rath: How to Buy an Overcoat

If you’re still rocking that North Face parka  over your suit jacket, it’s time for an upgrade.

Nothing ruins a great look faster than a not-so-great coat. For some reason  outerwear often seems to be at the end of peoples’ priority lists, but I can’t  stress enough how important it is for your coat or jacket to be up to par with  the rest of your outfit. Think about it: you walk into a restaurant to meet a  date.

Before you take your coat off, she’s already formed an impression of you.  The same goes for your office elevator. People tell me all the time that they  sneak in to their office building in junk clothes/shoes and change once they’re  there, but if you’re riding up in the elevator with people in your office, the  damage is done.

So, have I convinced you of the merits of a good overcoat yet?  Good! Here are my suggestions on how to choose one.

Fit: I see too many people around in oversized, too long  overcoats – such a disappointing look! It makes me think of a little kid playing  dress-up. Ideally, your overcoat should fit comfortably over a suit but still be  slim enough to look stylish with just a shirt and pants. The best, most  versatile length for a modern but still classic look is around your knee.

It should hit anywhere from mid/low-knee to just above it, depending on how modern  you want the look to be (the shorter you go, the younger the look). A  good-fitting overcoat should make you look taller, leaner and broader across the  shoulders.

Sizing: An overcoat is meant to fit on top of your suit, so  when buying off-the-rack, start by going up one size from your suit. Try it on  with a suit jacket or blazer and be sure it can close. The sleeves should cover  your suit and shirt sleeves.

Buttons – Make sure it buttons to a location on your body  that you’re comfortable with. I like this houndstooth check coat above from Balenciaga,  but notice how low it buttons on the model’s body. If it’s too low, and you get  cold easily, you might want to choose a coat that buttons a little higher.  Remember that you’ll likely be wearing a scarf with it on very cold days which  will give you additional coverage. What about the number of buttons? Most people  will need 3 buttons for a classic single-breasted style, but if you’re very tall  (over 6’ 3”), you should get 4.

Style: A single-breasted notch lapel creates a more  conservative/traditional look, whereas a double-breasted peak lapel is more  dressy, and also warmer due to the fuller coverage and double layer of fabric  over your chest. Overcoats also come with a wide choice of different pocket  options for you to consider: straight/horizontal, flap/slit, ticket/no ticket,  breast pocket/no breast pocket. And make sure to consider whether you want a  center vent in back or no vent at all. Don’t get locked in to the first coat you  see just because it’s convenient. Look around to find the one that resonates  best with you. Perhaps you wouldn’t have considered one with a leather  collar like the above from Burberry Prorsum until you saw it in person. There’s a world  of options!

Color/Patterns – The most classic  colors are navy, camel and grey (in that order), but you might also consider  getting a pattern if you’re into that sort of thing. If you do go for a pattern,  make sure to keep the rest of your outfit subtle. I’m anxiously awaiting this  brown herrringbone which I ordered custom as a chesterfield (with a velvet  collar) for a client.

Fabrics: There’s a huge range, from camel hair, to wool, to  cashmere to blends. Do some research on the different weights that you’re  choosing from and figure out how warm you need your overcoat to be before taking  the plunge. I’ve seen people buy very heavy overcoats that they never wear  because they’re just too warm. Know yourself and the climate you’re in (or that  you travel to) and factor that in.

Investment: Remember when you purchase a high quality  overcoat that it’s a classic piece which should last you at least 10-15 years.  This is one place in your wardrobe where it makes sense to invest.

Where to buy: You can either go off-the-rack or custom. For  the former, try department stores like Saks, Barney’s and Bloomingdale’s, along  with specific brand boutiques like Hugo Boss or Prada. If you live somewhere  without access to a lot of stores, you can look online. Websites like Mr. Porter and Suit  Supply are good go-to’s. If you decide to go custom, check Yelp and local  listings (like nymag.com here in NYC) for highly-rated clothiers or ask  well-dressed friends/acquaintances where they go.

_____________________________________________________

Are you shopping for an overcoat this season? I’d love to know what you’re  considering! Leave me a comment below.